Long Weekend in Cairo

Nothing can prepare you for the traffic in Cairo. No one can predict how long a journey may take: “You never know. This is Cairo” is the common answer. A journey that may take 30 minutes at the weekend could take 90 minutes on a Wednesday or 60 on a Monday. There are no rules, almost no traffic lights and drivers signal their manoeuvres with their horns. Pedestrian take their life into their hands when dodging moving traffic to cross the road. Miraculously accidents are rare. As a tourist, it can seem intimidating, but once you have mastered the art of stepping out in the flow of oncoming traffic, it’s a breeze!

Saqqara & Memphis
The Stepped Pyramid of Djoser, in the necropolis of Saqqara, was the first pyramid to be built in the 27th century BC. It is currently being restored but it remains just as impressive and is thought to be earliest large-scale cut stone construction. Close by to the pyramid are several mastabas, or underground tombs, with fascinating hieroglyphics, some still with the original colours remaining. 15 minutes from the site is Memphis, the ancient capital of Lower Egypt. As well as a large alabaster sphinx, there is an enormous statue of Ramses II, sarcophaguses and other statues that were discovered nearby.

Old Cairo
The heart of Cairo is heaving with people and cars. There is a constant sound of hooting horns that is only broken five times a day with the call to prayer. The Ibn Tulun Mosque, built around an enormous courtyard, is one of the oldest mosques in the city and gives a tranquil place to escape the noise of the city. From the top of the minaret, there are fantastic views of Cairo and the Citadel.

Next door to the mosque is the interesting Gayer-Anderson Museum. The museum takes its name from Major R.G. Gayer-Anderson Pasha, who lived in the house between 1935 and 1942. It is one of the best preserved examples of 17th century domestic architecture left in Cairo, and is full of also for Gayer-Anderson’s vast collection of furniture, carpets, curio, and other objects that he collected on his travels.

The Khan el Khalili is a rabbit warren of souks and bazaars selling everything from spices and clothes for the locals to tourist souvenirs. The buzzing atmosphere entices you in and hours can be spent haggling with the sellers. It’s a perfect place to do some shopping for gifts to take home.

Felucca trip
After a hectic day of sightseeing, a relaxing trip on a felucca boat watching the sun set makes a perfect end to the day. Away from the traffic noises, the only sounds are of the sails flapping and other passing boats.

Wadi el Hitan
Cairo is a city surrounded by desert. 150 km southwest of Cairo, accessible only with a 4×4 is the UNESCO site of Wadi el Hitan, or Valley of the Whales. 45 million years ago, the area was covered by the ocean, which as it dried up has left a remarkable collection of fossilised whalebones. Nowhere else in the world has the number, concentration and quality of such fossils, nor is their accessibility and setting in as an attractive and protected landscape. Because of their remoteness, very few tourists make the journey and it is not uncommon to be alone at the site. The fossils are fascinating but the 3 km walk through the valley is spectacular: lunar landscapes have been created by the wind and sand, exposing outcrops of harder rock.

Egyptian Museum
Regularly touted as one of the world’s best museums, Cairo’s Egyptian Museum really mustn’t be missed. With too much to see in one day, it’s definitely recommend visiting with a guide, who can show the most interesting artifacts and give explanations. A real highlight is Tutankhamen’s room, where his gold funerary mask is on display alongside many other treasures found in his tomb. There’s an additional fee to go inside the Royal Mummy Room, but it’s worth it as there are 8 or 9 incredibly well intact mummies, one of which is the recently discovered mummy of Queen Hatshepsut.

Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx
No trip to Cairo would be complete without seeing the Pyramids or the Sphinx but be prepared for the hoards of tourists and tour busses! It is possible to go inside the Great Pyramid but only a limited number of tickets are sold each day so you should get there early. As the tunnel is cramped and badly lit, it’s not for those with claustrophobia or back problems. I would suggest a quick stop at both to take a photograph but then head out of the city to some of the lesser-known and therefore quieter sites of Saqqara or Dahshur

24 HOURS IN SHANGHAI

With a population of more than 20 million, Shanghai is one of the world’s most highly populated cities. Divided in two by the Huangpu River, the historic centre of the city, Puxi, is on the western side of the river, and modern Pudong, with the ever-changing skyline is on the east.

Although it is a vast metropolis, with hundreds of towering skyscrapers, a 24-hour stopover is sufficient time to see the main highlights but to explore the city properly you need at least 3 days.

JIN MAO TOWER

First stop on any sightseeing tour should be the Jin Mao Tower’s 88th floor observation deck. The third tallest skyscraper in Shanghai, the views give a sense of the enormity of the city and help orientation of the west and east sides. For a room up high, the Shanghai Grand Hyatt Hotel occupies floors 53 to 87, the second highest hotel in the world.

THE BUND

Reopened in March 2010 after extensive restorations, the Bund is the very heart of 1920s Shanghai. Art Deco, Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque buildings line the waterfront road with views across the promenade of the river and Pudong. The historical buildings once housed banks and trading houses from across the world and are now used by Chinese banks, shops and hotels. No. 12 The Bund, formerly the grand HSBC Building, is now the Shanghai Pudong Development Bank and the next-door Custom House has a clock and bell tower modelled on London’s Big Ben.

YU YUAN GARDENS & OLD CHINA TOWN

In the centre of Nan Shi, the old Chinese part of the city, Yu Yuan Gardens, dating back to the 16th century, are one of the finest examples of a classical Chinese residential garden. The six smaller areas within the garden feature rockeries, ponds, wooden bridges, water features pagodas and pavilions. After wandering through the gardens, visit the Bazaar and small surrounding alleyways full of classical Chinese architecture and plenty of souvenirs. Finish up for lunch in one of the many Dim Sum restaurants for Shanghai’s delicious speciality xiao long bao, soup dumplings.

NANJING ROAD

Shanghai’s pedestrian version of Oxford Street is one of the world’s busiest shopping streets running over 3 miles from the Bund to the Jing’an Temple and is lined with large department stores, an abundance of food outlets and shops selling everything from designer clothes to traditional silks and jade proructs. By day the road is heaving with shoppers and by night colourful neon signs and huge video screens light it up every building.

AFTER DARK

When the sun sets in Shanghai the buildings come to life with spectacular lighting and illuminations on the predominant skyscrapers across the city. The Oriental Pearl Tower in Pudong flashes like a disco ball and lights on all of the buildings along the Bund are floodlit giving equally beautiful city views from both sides of the river.
And for really after dark: The Chinese love their karaoke!

Around the World in Katie Days: Cusco Flood Appeal

Around the World in Katie Days: Cusco Flood Appeal

Cusco Flood Appeal

On 29th January, nearly a week after the Urubamba River burst its banks, the last of the stranded tourists at Machu Picchu were airlifted by helicopter back to Cusco. Left behind is an abandoned town whose community depend wholly on tourists to sustain itself. The raging waters have destroyed large sections of the railway line, which, apart from a 4-day hike along the Inca Trail, is the only way to access Machu Picchu. Current estimates put the repairs at 8 weeks leaving the Inca ruins inaccessible and the livelihoods of thousands at risk. This is the rainy season in the Andes so it’s not unusual, but the volume of the water was the highest in over 15 years. At its peak, a flow of 1,100 cubic metres per second was measured; the previous record was 850 cubic metres per second.

The international media is failing to report on the local Peruvians and what the devastation will mean for them. In the Sacred Valley, where the Urubamba River flooded low-lying fields and nearby communities, people have been left homeless and crops destroyed. As the government seems to be focussing all its efforts on looking after the tourists and repairing the train lines, the people most affected seem to be forgotten.

Last year I became aware of Latin American Foundation for the Future, a charity set up to help young and vulnerable people in Peru, such as street children. One of the projects LAFF support is Azul Wasi just outside Cusco. Having spent 6 months living and working with children in the Sacred Valley I was immediately interested. The ‘Blue House’ currently houses a number of orphaned children and is working to become self-sustainable. Last week the floods have threatened to damage the foundations and the staff and children have been working desperately to dig their own flood defences. The house urgently needs help to finance more substantial defences and to repair damage already done. Whilst the house is inhabitable at the moment, the children need somewhere else to live, and this also needs money.

If you are able to assist with this project in any way, it would be so gratefully received. For more information on the charity please see http://www.laffcharity.org.uk/projectnews.html

For donations please visit www.justgiving.com/cuscofloodappeal

Thank you

Lebaneasy

Since the Foreign Office put Lebanon back on its ‘safe’ list, the country is rebuilding its reputation as a tourist destination and it’s finding itself on the top of travel publications’ ‘undiscovered must-see’ countries for 2010.

Just 5 hours flying time from London, and only a 2 hour time difference means Beirut is perfect for a short break in search of some sunshine. For a country that takes just 3 hours to drive from north to south, the amount of diversity is remarkable. It might be clever marketing, but geographically it is possible to be skiing on the slopes of Mount Lebanon in the morning and swimming on the shores of the Mediterranean in the afternoon.

For most people Beirut is synonymous with a very recent turbulent past. Apart from the physical damage that remains on some buildings, and a visible military presence on the streets, there is no other evidence of the conflicts and the Lebanese are a very cosmopolitan and liberal country, unlike anywhere else in the Middle East.

Beirut’s downtown is in the process of undergoing a complete facelift, restoring the buildings to their former glory and creating a bustling city centre to try to gain its former title of the ‘Paris of the Middle East’. Solidere is a privately owned company responsible for the 25 year, multi-billion dollar rebuild programme. Gradually mosques, churches, offices and shops are all being reopened and it has given the renamed Solidere centre a new bustling lease of life.

The Corniche, the rebuilt promenade along the coast, is a hub of activity. During the day people jog and walk along it. At dusk, families meet there and friends smoke their hubbly-bubbly pipes listening to music, all watching the sun as it finally dips into the sea on the horizon.

Just 40 minutes north of the capital is the small ancient fishing village of Byblos, one of the oldest continuously-inhabited towns in the world. After exploring the ruins of the castle and quaint souks, a delicious fish lunch is a well-deserved reward. The restaurant terraces overlooking the small harbour, with its fishing boats coming in with the catch of the day make Byblos feels more Mediterranean than Middle Eastern.

En route to Byblos is Jeitta Grotto, a series of enormous caves, justified as a contender for one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. Both the Upper and Lower Caverns have gigantic stalactites and stalagmites, formed millions of years ago, all spectacularly illuminated. You can walk about 20 minutes deep into the Upper Cavern but since the Lower Cavern is partially flooded its necessary to take a small electric boat through the series of lagoons.

The real jewel in Lebanon’s crown is Baalbek. Like Palmyra in Syria, a small town has built up around the site but Baalbek is even better preserved. The 6 remaining columns of Temple of Jupiter, standing over 22 metres high, are the tallest in the world and are perhaps the most famous image of Baalbek. Next to the columns is the smaller Temple of Bacchus. Ironically it’s called the Little Temple although it’s even larger than the Parthenon in Athens.

The Lebanese people are all so welcoming and hospitable and the food was incredible. Fish, kofta, pitta and kebabs all feature highly on a Lebanese mezze menu and in 4 days it is definitely possible to eat more hummus than anyone can think is possible!